Form resin user guide
1. Introduction
Form is an affordable general model resin for laser SLA resin printers like Formlabs and Peopoly Moai.
It is formulated to work with both PDMS and FEP vat commonly found on laser printers. The Form offers great resolution and surface finish while it is easy to print using the suggested setting.
Due to higher polymer content for its outstanding mechanical properties, the ideal printing condition for Form is over 25C.
Due to Form resin is developed for laser SLA printer, it takes more energyt to cure than resins designed for MSLA/LCD printer. Please avoid using Form on MSLA printers
The shelf life of the resin is one and a half years.
Even if it can be stored for such a long time, we still recommend that you use it in half a year.
UV Resin is a liquid sensitive to temperature, light, and time. Long-term storage will cause the components and pigment of the resin to precipitate and separate.
2. Before Printing
It is a good practice to mix resin and expose the bottom of the vat to air before printing. This replenish oxygen in the vat and helps reduce peel force.
Form especially benefit from mixing because it has pigments and may settle over time
It would also ensure print consistency if user can get the initial resin temperature above 25 and keep the environmental temperature above 20 C
* Important, before printing Form
1) Form has that dark grey colors that model makers love, and we have already seen some great prints. However, it is also one of Siraya Tech resins that has pigments, and it may settle. To get the best results out of Form, SHAKE HARD (applies to all resins with pigments).
2) To do it correctly shake that bottle for 20-30s before use. Stir up the resin that is already in the vat before each print. And if you just received Form, before opening it up for the first time, turn it upside down for a minute (submerged in warm water is even better) and then shake for another minute or two to make sure you get a great mix.
3) If you want to take it to the next level, throw a small metal ball in there and shake it, the object will significantly increase the efficiency of mixing pigments and resins.
3. Print settings
| Exposure: Form Grey | ||||
| Recommended | ||||
| Printer | Profile | |||
| Form2 | Grey V4 | Some users run print at Dental LT for higher accuracy print | ||
| Form3 | Grey V4 | Some users run print at Dental LT for higher accuracy print | ||
| Form1+ | Grey V4 | Some users run print at Dental LT for higher accuracy print | ||
| Moai | Laser Power set to 58. Use standard slicing profile | |||
4. Cleaning
Use a painter brush (or any brush made with hair) remove excess resins on the printed part with Use 95% concentrated Ethanol or IPA to clean.
After 2-3 minutes of cleaning action, remove alcohol with a hair dryer or air blower. For complex part with lots cavities, it may be a good idea to clean/dry multiple times.
User can check by touching the dryed surface of the part to see if it is still sticky. If the dryed surface is still sticky, wash some more and dry again.
Sanding is easy with Form. Use 1000 grit sand paper with a bit of mineral oil or water. Mineral oil adds lusters
5. Post Curing
Form reached its optimal strength when the printed part is post-cured with UV after cleaned. Use 395-405nm UV light and cure for about 15 minutes.
Make sure resin is completely cleaned off and there is not alcohol left (it needs to be dry) on the print before curing.
Curing by submerging object in water will significantly increase curing efficiency
6. Mechanical Properties
| Shore Hardness (D) | 85D |
| Tensile Stress at Break (MPa) | 42 |
| IZOD Impact (Notched, J/m) | 25 |
| HDT at 0.455 MPa (°C) | 76 |
| Elongation at Break (%) | 6 |
| Young's Modulus (MPa) | 1250 |
| Viscosity @ 25°C (77°F) | 380 |
MSDS
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hQ-EJPGCuDp6SrYnl4VQeKm8hku_s9wK/view?usp=sharing
TDS
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1suaFCOIm7ExHblST_Xwts9mSZaRR7BxI/view?usp=drive_link